What is Peat and Compost Soil in Cannbis Growth?

Hello Growers,

Our topic of discussion is inspired by a post from @Ozz. Yes, it gets bigger and better as we discuss organic soil as a whole. The different types, how to make some for your grow, and trust us, every detail you need to know.

But for now, we are excited to know: Where do you get soil for your grow? Do you buy or make some yourself?

If you buy, who is your trusted supplier so we help another grower know where to go.

If you make some, how do you do it?


  • What is Organic Soil?

    Organic soil is soil that is rich in organic matter which is made up of decomposed plant and animal materials.

    Organic matter provides essential nutrients to plants and helps to improve soil structure, drainage, and water-holding capacity.

    Organic soil is typically created by adding organic materials such as compost, leaf litter, manure, and other organic amendments to the soil.

    Organic soil is important for sustainable agriculture and gardening because it promotes healthy plant growth and reduces the need for synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.

    Types of Organic Soil

    So many people are excited about today’s post, and here is where we talk about compost, peat moss, manure, leaf mold, green manure, and biochar, all types of organic soils. So let's get right into it.

    What is Compost?

    Compost is an organic soil amendment made from decomposed plant and animal materials.

    It is often referred to as "black gold" because it is a rich source of nutrients and organic matter that can improve soil fertility, structure, and moisture-holding capacity.

    Compost can be created by combining a mixture of green and brown organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, food scraps, manure, and straw in a compost bin or pile.

    The organic matter in the mixture is then broken down by microorganisms such as bacteria and fungi, which release nutrients into the soil as they decompose the materials.

    The resulting compost is a dark, crumbly substance high in nutrients and beneficial microorganisms, making it an excellent soil amendment for growing healthy plants.

    How to Make Compost

    Composting is a natural process, so you can get creative and experiment and adjust your methods to find what works best for you, but here is a starting guide.


    Green and brown organic materials (e.g., grass clippings, leaves, vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, etc.)

    Compost bin or pile (can be made from wood, plastic, or wire mesh)

    Water source

    Garden fork or pitchfork

    Shovel or garden trowel

    Step 1: Choose a Location

    Select a location for your compost bin or pile. This should be an area that is level and has good drainage. It should also be easily accessible for adding materials and turning the compost.

    Step 2: Gather Materials

    Gather green and brown organic materials to use for your compost.

    Green materials include things like grass clippings, vegetable scraps, and coffee grounds, while brown materials include leaves, straw, and twigs. Aim for a mix of roughly 2:1 browns to greens.

    Step 3: Build Your Compost Pile

    Start your compost pile by layering a 6- to 8-inch-thick base of brown materials, like leaves or straw, at the bottom of your compost bin or pile.

    Then, add a layer of green materials, like vegetable scraps or grass clippings, on top of the brown layer. Add water to moisten the materials, but avoid soaking them.

    Step 4: Continue Layering

    Continue adding layers of brown and green materials, moistening as you go, until the pile is about 3 feet tall.

    Be sure to mix in a few shovels of soil or finished compost occasionally, as this will help introduce beneficial microorganisms to speed up the composting process.

    Step 5: Turn the Pile

    After a few weeks, use a garden fork or pitchfork to turn the pile. This will help aerate the materials and speed up the composting process. Be sure to moisten the materials if they are dry.

    Step 6: Monitor the Compost

    Monitor the temperature and moisture level of the compost pile regularly.

    The ideal temperature for composting is between 130-150 degrees Fahrenheit. If the pile is too hot, add more browns to cool it down. If it is too cool, add more greens to heat it up.

    Step 7: Harvest the Compost

    After a few months, the compost should be dark, crumbly, and smell earthy. This means it is ready to use!

    Use a garden fork or shovel to remove the finished compost from the bottom of the pile. Spread it over your garden or mix it into potting soil for healthy, nutrient-rich plants.

    So, I think we make this a thread and discuss all we need to know about organic soil. Today we start with compost.

    Let me know what you think, and feel free to ask any questions you would like us to discuss on the topic below.

  • docnraq
    edited May 13

    Update> @docnraq said:

    Started an OGKZ autoflower few days ago, first one I planted a month ago didnt sprout and I was short on soil to start another so had to abandon the project. Things are back on track! I decided that since I had grown 4 photoperiod in Natures Living Soil, I'd give an auto a try. I loved using Natures Living Soil so much that I became an affiliate. To start this grow I mixed Big Rootz organic potting mix
    Natures Living Soil

    I also added 25% addt perlite. Some Mosquito bits to combat fungus gnats (preemptive strike). And some Mycos from Extreme Gardening. The NLS already has all you would need but I have had this lil mycos bag for like a year and thought id get rid of some of it. More Mykos is never a bad thing.
    To turn the organic potting soil into a super soil you follow these very easy directions.
    One of the biggest differences in organics vs synthetics is that living soil can not dry out. When it does it kills off the bacteria and fungi that feed your plants. (in organics you feed the soil not the plant, the microbes in the soil produce nutes that the plant then consumes, its a symbiotic relationship.) This makes the usual drench and drought watering method ineffective. The object instead is to keep the soil perfectly moist. To wet, bad bacteria take over, to dry and good bacteria die.....its a balancing act. In flower, much easier then when in veg. I found this guide on another website and it works excellent to get you through the first month after transplant as far as watering goes.
    I have also found this to be an excellent watering strategy for the first 30 days of growth of non living soil grows as well. I start at 60 ml instead of two cups for sprouts and follow the path of doubling described above.
    This plant will recieve only water, molasses and after the first 30 days, NLS tea weekly until flower then I will switch to Girl Flower Power by NLS which is just NLS only formulated with specific enzymes that will help produce more P and K for the plant to consume.

    Here is Bonnie!

    Hope this post from my journal will make a nice addition to this thread. Also above when describing the watering technique I mistyped "method of doubling" it should read "method of increase".

  • Hey @docnraq, yes, very juicy details. Thank you for sharing.